HAUTE COUTURE L G:
S NGHIM NGT
CA CHUN MC
MAY O CAO CP
Mi khi thng Ging v, tun l thi trang Haute Couture li b Paris, gii mt iu mn nhn chim ngng cc b su tp xa hoa n t cc thng hiu nh m. Ci t haute couture xa l vi nhng ngi khng theo di thi trang, nhng haute couture mt phm tr nu bn l mt tn thi trang.
Haute Couture l ni cc NTK tha nim am m sng to, ni nhng b cch xa x bt nht ra i. Vy, haute couture c ngha l g? N khng n thun l ci tn bnh thng. Hy cng tm hiu nhng iu c bn v gic m thi trang cao cp n t Php.
1. HAUTE COUTURE L G?
T haute c ngha l cao cp tng ng vi t high trong ting anh, sang trng. T couture tng ng vi dressmaking, ting Php c hiu l may o cao cp, thit k trang phc. Do , phn bit high fashion v haute couture hoc high dressmaking c th hiu ngha haute couture l thi trang cao cp. Cc nh thit k thi trang lm nn b su tp haute couture trong ting Php c gi l couturier.
Thut ng ny ban u dng miu t cc kit tc ca Charles Frederick Worth. c sn xut ti Paris vo gia th k XIX. iu c bit nhng thit k ca ng l cho khc hng chn mu sc; loi vi v cc chi tit khc trc khi bt u qu trnh thit k ca mnh. y l iu v tin khong hu vo thi im lc by gi.
Php, thut ng Haute Couture l mt thut ng c php lut bo v v qun l. V n cng c nh ngha bi Chambre de commerce et dindustrie de Paris c tr s ti Paris. Cc trang phc Haute Couture u c may bng tay v ch dnh ring cho khch hng c tin. Nn Haute Couture c xem l sn chi ca gii thng lu, qu tc.

n nm 1908, khi nim haute couture ln u tin c s dng chnh thc.
2. LCH S RA I CA THI TRANG HAUTE COUTURE
Mi chuyn bt u t nhng b trang phc cu k, sang trng ca hong hu Php Marie Antoinette. Khi , b Rose Bertin l ngi c nhim v chun b vy o cho hong hu, ng thi cng l ngi trc tip may nhng b trang phc y.
Nhng b trang phc dnh cho hong hu Marie Antoinette chnh l ngun cm hng cc hng lm thi trang Couture sng to ra BST thi trang ca mnh, nhm p ng nhu cu ca nhng khch hng thng lu khng bao gi b trng lp vi nhau.
Vo th k th 18, lnh vc thi trang pht trin ti cung nh php, nhng ngi thch mua sm khng ngn ngi n tn Php shopping, nhu cu ngy cng tng ln. Khch hng tm n tn ni sn xut v t hng s hu c nhng b cnh snh iu cht lng cao v c nht. Gip cho nhng ngi th may ti Php c nhn xt l tt nht Chu u

n th k 19, mi vic thay i hon ton. Khi mt nh thit k ngi Anh c tn Charles Worth i tin phong trong vic a tn tui ca mnh vo cc mu qun o. ng t tay may nhng b trang phc ri a cho ngi mu mc. iu ny to nn bc ngot ln trong lng thi trang ti Php.
Nu Rose Bertin c cng t nn mng cho ngnh cng nghip sn xut Haute Couture th Charles Worth mi l cha thc s ca th trang phc xa x ny.T m thut ng Haute Couture xut hin, din t nhng tc phm ca thi trang thit k. Linh hn ca thi trang cao cp c may o bng tay phc v ngi ni ting, tng lp thng lu qu tc.
Nm 1958, Charles Frederick Worth thnh lp nh mt thi trang cao cp u tin ti Php.
Nm 1868, La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture c thnh lp. y l Nghip on may o cao cp, vai tr l nh bo v cho thi trang cao cp.
Nm 1908, cm t Haute Couture mi c s dng chung. Ngha ca t haute couture l thi trang cao cp.
Nm 1921, LAssosystem de Protection des Industries Artistiques Saisonnieres c thnh lp m bo Haute Couture khng b v phm bn quyn.
Nm 1945, Nghip on may o cao cp a ra nhng thng s k thut m bo s khc bit vi thi trang thng thng.

Nm 1946, s lng nh mt ln n 106, tuy nhin n nm 1970, s lng gim li cn ch 19 khi phi tun th nhng quy nh nghim ngt v chi ph l qu ln nn khng th tr vng.
Nm 1966, Yves Saint Laurent thnh lp ca hng thi trang cao cp u tin ca mnh. Tip ni s thnh cng ny, cc ca hng thi trang cao cp khc cng c ra i nh: Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges, Ted Lapidus v Emanuel Ungaro.
n nay Haute Couture vn ch dnh ring cho nhng tng lp thng lu, qu tc hin nay, s c nht vn c nhn mnh trong cc thit k. V gi tr ca mt thit k vy o ny l v cng ln, chnh v th n khng ph bin rng ri m ch c bit n trong gii nh giu.
3. HAUTE COUTURE C QUY NH BI CHNH PH
Haute Couture l mt tc hiu c bit c to ra bi Chnh ph Php. Mt hng cao cp ny ch c sn xut cho mt khch hng c bit. Haute couture l mt t ting Php trong couture ngha l may v. Vo mi nm, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture (Nghip on may o cao cp) s a ra danh sch cc thng hiu p ng c nhng quy nh sau y tr thnh mt thnh vin ca h:
1. H phi thit k qun o theo n t hng ca khch hng t nhn, c hn 1 mu th v s dng xng may c t nht 15 nhn vin lm vic ton thi gian.
2. t nht 20 nhn vin k thut ton thi gian ti mt trong cc xng
3. Phi trnh lng mt b su tp khng di 35 mu thit k n cng chng vo mi ma trong nm, vo thng 1 v thng 7.

Nu khng p ng c cc iu kin trn, thng hiu thi trang s b loi b khi danh sch. iu ny xy ra vi nh mt Givenchy vo ma Xun H nm 2013. V t nm 1945 cha c thng hiu no ph v c nhng quy tc ny.

COUTURE V HAUTE COUTURE KHNG PHI L MT
Ngi ta thng nhm ln gia hai khi nim Couture v Haute Couture. Nu Haute Couture ngha l may o cao cp l thut ng dng ring v c thnh lp bi chnh ph Php, Couture ch c dng ni n nhng trang phc c ch to th cng v c mt khng hai.
5. NHNG QUY CHUN NGHIM NGT CA HAUTE COUTURE
haute couture hay cn c gi l thi trang cao cp nn n c nhng quy nh nghim ngt chun mc ca haute couture nh sau:
5. 1. THIT K HON TON BNG TAY
Haute couture l ngh thut thit k nn mt b trang phc hon ton bng tay, couture l thit k, may v thi trang cn haute biu th s thanh lch. Sn phm vn dng k thut tinh xo ca nhng ngi th lnh ngh nht (cn gi l petit mains). Cht liu vi v nguyn liu phi t , qu him. Khu trang tr v kt ht cng phi c hon thin bng tay
Mt thit k haute couture mt rt nhiu thi gian v cng sc hon thnh. Khng c mc gi c nh nh hng may sn. Mi chic thng l c nht v c may theo s o ring ca khch hng qu tc nn gi c khng phi l iu quan trng.

C khi cc nh thit k haute couture khng bn m ch trnh din, haute couture cn l mt th gii xa hoa dnh cho qu tc, nhng b trang phc l bc nh l ni nhng gic m cao cp. Chng c xem nh nhng tc phm ngh thut, th hin ti nng sng to khng gii hn ca cc nh thit k.
5. 2. SN PHM MAY O DNH CHO KHCH HNG THNG LU
H phi sng to nhng b trang phc ring dnh cho khch hng v khch hng phi th nhiu ln n khi hi lng mi thi.
Trang phc phi l thit k nguyn bn do chnh nh thit k chnh ca hng sng to nn. ng hng trong thi trang haute couture l iu ti k.
5. 3. PHI C NH XNG (ATELIER) T TI PARIS
Ch c cc thnh vin chnh thc ca Nghip on may o cao cp mi c gi l couturier.
c kt np vo hip hi Haute Couture, nh mt phi c xng may ring (atelier) ti Paris. H phi to cng n vic lm cho ti thiu 20 th lnh ngh (petit mains), lm vic ton thi gian quanh nm.
Trong s cc nh haute couture chnh thc, Chanel l nh mt lu i nht cn hot ng, bt u t nm 1913. Cc nh mt Php khc th c Christian Dior, Alexandre Vauthier, Julien Fourni, Schiaparelli
Tuy nhin, hip hi Haute Couture cng kt np thm mt s thnh vin quc t. V d nh Elie Saab t Beirut, Lebanon; Valentino v Atelier Versace t ;
Guo Pei t Trung Quc u p ng c nhng tiu ch gt gao.

5. 4. THEO ST LCH TRNH TUN L THI TRANG HAUTE COUTURE PARIS
Mi ma, nh mt phi cho ra mt mt b su tp vi t nht 35 thit k nguyn bn, bao gm trang phc ban ngy v ban m. Chng thng c mc bi gii nh giu trong cc bui l hi v s t c din cocktail.
Hai ma haute couture c t chc vo thng Ging v thng By theo thi kha biu do hi ng Chambre Syndicate de la Haute Couture a ra.
6. CC THNH VIN CA HAUTE COUTURE
Tnh n hin ti, danh sch trn website chnh thc Haute Couture ca Php c nhng ci tn tiu biu nh:
Chanel
Christian Dior
Givenchy
Louis Vuitton
Ralph & Russo
Herms
Elie Saab
Versace
Valentino
Saint Laurent
Balmain
Maurizio Galante
Atelier Gustavolin
Bouchra Jarrar
Alexis Mabille
Alexandre Vauthier
Frank Sorbier
Jean Paul Gaultier
Stphane Rolland
Adeline Andr
6.1 CHANEL L THNG HIU THI TRANG CAO CP LN NHT
Nu bn c thc mc v sao bui trnh din ca Chanel lun di nht, l v s lng nhn cng lm vic ti nh may ca hng. Mi trang phc thng c to ra bi mt nhm chnh. T s lng trang phc xut hin ti bui din, ta c th thy quy m nh may ca Chanel ln n u.
BST Chanel Haute Couture Thu ng 2021.
Trong khi Dior ch c 2 th Chanel c ti 4 nh may, bao gm 2 nh may cho cht liu mm v 2 nh cho cht liu dy. V d in hnh l ma Xun 2015, c to nn t bn tay ca 100 th may.
6.2 HAUTE COUTURE LISA
Lisa l mt trong nhng ci tn nh m trong nhm nhc Blackpink c nhiu fan Vit Nam